Observe the guys walking bottomward Madison and Bedford Avenues, and it’s bright that something’s happened aback Don Draper aboriginal appeared in his bound flannel two-button: Men who aren’t necessarily Apparel are cutting suits—and an arrangement of layered, accessorized, absolutely non-zhlubby looks. Aback aftermost year, sales of affluence menswear in the U.S. rose 14 percent, according to Bain & Company, bifold that of womenswear. Not surprising, then, is the excess of guy-centric emporiums that accept emerged in the deathwatch of trailblazing multi-brand boutiques like Odin, Goose Barnacle, Nepenthes, and the Brooklyn Circus, as able-bodied as J.Crew’s men’s shops. Here, a bout through the newest stores, a attending at what it takes to accessible a men’s bazaar about 2013, and admonition from bounded bloggers on area to bargain-hunt for boxer-briefs.
The Americana Importer:Inventory12 Extra Pl., nr. E. 1st St. 212-420-8900What started in 2009 as a Vancouver-based alt-menswear annual (Monocle for the urban-woodsman set) acquired this March into a minimal-leaning bazaar on a tiny artery off the Bowery. Manager (and editor-at-large) Philip Watts encourages East Village audience to lounge on Artek stools, badinage with the communicative staff, and go home with high-quality alien goods—traditional British knits from Margaret Howell ($325 to $550); sweatshirts from the Real McCoy’s out of Japan (from $215); additional added adapted takes on American best from Workers and Sassafras, two curve ahead bare alfresco Japan. Accessories are plentiful, too, with brogues by Trickers ($525) and absolute hats by Ebbets Field Flannels ($50).
The Brick-and-Mortar Disrupter:Bonobos35 Crosby St., nr. Broome St. 212-343-4235 This new “guideshop” is added a exhibit than a retailer: A few canicule above-mentioned to visiting, book a one-on-one appointment with a affable staffer. She’ll amount out which fits, sizes, and styles of business-casual basics like done chinos ($88), striped dress shirts ($85), and abbreviate apparel ($685; new this month) adulate you best. Again go online application one of the store’s army iPads to its website—bonobos.com, area the cast started—to adjustment and accept your new articles delivered. Afterwards your aboriginal visit, you can apparently furnish your banal with a few clicks, admitting you’re consistently acceptable aback in-store to blow and feel the accomplished band and try on annihilation in person.
The Ivy-Style Updater:J.Press York Street304 Bleecker St., nr. Seventh Ave. 212-255-6151More than a aeon afterwards the basic athletic was founded on Yale’s campus, J.Press has collaborated with the cipher brothers abaft Ovadia & Sons—CFDA Fashion Fund Finalists this year—to amend begat wardrobes for the Silicon Valley age. There’s none of the aged dad tweeds for which the cast was already known; instead, the abundance is committed to an absolutely new band that uses analogously preppy motifs (herringbone, flannel, rugby stripes, and so on) but cuts them into modern, slim-fitting silhouettes for a added active effect. Gray-flannel sack apparel ($1,450), bequest football shirts ($195), and fleet duffle coats ($695) abode to post-Abercrombie burghal twentysomethings.
The Mix Master:Gentry127 N. 6th St., nr. Berry St., Williamsburg; 718-599-7091Owing to a cast battle, the year-old abundance aforetime accepted as H.W. Carter & Sons is now Gentry, a multi-brand megashop. The heavily textured, awful blooming heritage-inspired appurtenances ambit from $100 T-shirts by Our Legacy to $500 coats by Engineered Garments. A able cossack accumulating brims with British Grensons and Chicago-made pairs from Oak Artery Bootmakers, both “bench-made,” by hand, to aftermost (and, thus, starting at about $300 per pair). Additionally, a nattily dressed agents and one big axial mirror beggarly you aren’t acceptable to analysis out afterwards someone—employee or adolescent shopper—chiming in on your abeyant purchase.
The Next-Gen Jeans Dealer:Raleigh NYC211 Elizabeth St., nr. Prince St. 212-334-1330Owners Sarah and Victor Lytvinenko called their band afterwards the North Carolina capital, area they aboriginal abstruse from retired branch workers to accomplish their handmade jeans one at a time. Here, their dejection ($215 to $330) are housed in a amplitude aggressive by a acceptable southern home—a antechamber leads to a parlor room—and was created in affiliation with OMA, Rem Koolhaas’s beat architectonics firm. T-shirts ($40 to $80), outerwear ($195 to $450), and accouterment jackets (from $450) are additionally on offer, additional there’s a women’s range. Alone the pants appear with chargeless in-store hemming, done—of course—on a best Union Special chain-stitching machine.
The Accessories Clubhouse:Fine & Dandy445 W. 49th St., nr. Tenth Ave. 212-247-4847Patterned cottony and tweedy alloyed neckties ($45 to $65) are accumulated by the hundreds into best trunks—with dozens of suspenders ($49 to $69) adjacent dangling from blind rods—at this accommodation 300-square-foot shop. Afterwards ablution online in 2008 and aperture a brick-and-mortar abundance backward aftermost year, co-owners Enrique Crame III and Matt Fox now focus alone on menswear minutiae. Up to bristles times daily, they action ad-lib attached acquaint with their locally fabricated bow ties ($49 to $65) while additionally affairs hard-to-find men’s spats ($69)—they accept six varieties to accept from—plus belt links ($39 to $49), business-card holders ($19 to $26), and printed cottony abridged squares that changeable assemblage accept been accepted to repurpose as arch scarves.
The Cheap Best Purveyor:Cool Pony733 Franklin Ave., nr. Sterling Pl., Crown Heights; 347-927-4718After old-time fiddler Craig Judelman and above librarian Ariane Ben Eli met accomplishing abatement assignment for Hurricane Sandy, the two absitively to accumulate the acceptable accordance activity by aperture a austerity shop. Admitting there are choices ample for women, the abate menswear area stands out, with abundant of it advancing from best food and acreage sales in New Jersey, Pennsylvania, and upstate. Currently, there’s a YSL accepted for $40, an Oscar de la Renta action covering for the aforementioned price, and best Pendleton ($30) and Ralph Lauren shirts ($25). Depending aback you go, Judelman or one of his canaille artist accompany may be giving a chargeless show.
The Uptown Bespoke Boutique:Harlem Haberdashery 245 Malcolm X Blvd., at 122nd St. 646-707-0070The guys abaft the band 5001 Flavors accept dressed Jay-Z for his “Empire State of Mind” video and David Beckham for an Adidas attack in their high-gloss, trad-inspired streetwear aesthetic—ties, vests, and covering included. So aback the aggregate opened its Axial Harlem abundance aftermost year, the accumulation abounding it with agnate items to those beat by their clients: blatant house-designed ready-to-wear, from a 5001 Flavors red covering motorcycle anorak ($1,300) to custom-built high-top Android Homme sneakers (from $150), and accidental accouterment by bold streetwear brands like Black Billionaire and Dead Couture, with graphic, logo-emblazoned T-shirts starting at $20. Regulars, like Red Rooster chef Marcus Samuelsson, generally beat by the parlor-level bazaar for custom dressmaking (slim-fit absolute or affection apparel alpha about $800), which includes chargeless alterations so barter can airing out the aperture in their new threads.
The French Shirt Master:Manuel Racim44 Hudson St., nr. Thomas St. 212-233-0417Upon affective from Paris’s Marais to Manhattan and acumen he couldn’t acquisition anyone to custom-make his shirts—too abounding tailors in New York are primarily suit-focused—former retail adviser Manuel Guardiola absitively to fix the botheration himself: He bought a baby Tribeca storefront with his business accomplice Racim Allouani, sourced an atelier in western France, and inset an online acclimation awning into a mirror area gents can acquirement bespoke shirts that ambit from $125 to $295. Afterwards you accept from 200 fabrics, twenty collar choices, and fifteen types of buttons, and acknowledgment a few fit questions, specs are beatific away and the accomplished artefact comes aback aural two weeks. All choices are adored in a database to affluence bushing from anywhere in the world.
The Brooklyn Trailblazer:Hatchet Outdoor Supply Co.77 Atlantic Ave., nr. Hicks St., Brooklyn Heights; 347-763-1963First came Best Fabricated Company and its $300 axes. Now, above streetwear-store freeholder and bygone Eagle Scout Gene Han has brought high-quality, outdoor-inspired menswear to Atlantic Avenue. As Hatchet’s name suggests, the abundance is ample with commonsensical yet aesthetically aboveboard clothes that were, until this point, decidedly adamantine to acquisition in South Brooklyn: waxed canvas jackets by Barbour ($400 to $600), archetypal Filson accoutrements ($150 to $300), additional animated hiking accessory by Apolis ($120 to $300) and Woolrich by John Rich & Bros ($300 to $350). And clashing in best of the city’s analogously abounding stores, tents, backpacks, and added absolute hiking accessory can be purchased for those who appetite to analysis the clothes’ backbone above the accurate jungle.
The Streetwear Annex:The Acceptable Company97 Allen St., nr. Delancey St. 212-966-0903Rather than being the 500-square-foot white-walled amplitude with as abundant commodity as possible, the three San Francisco accompany who opened actuality aftermost November go for a added affected approach, with (relatively) additional racks, neon after-effects on the walls, and pillows and ephemera from the tough-to-find band by the hip-hop aggregate Odd Future. The abode carries added than twenty brands that are accepted online—some alone accessible contrarily through e-commerce—and the banal (ranging from $5 for TGC lighters to $300 for locally handmade attache bags) is edited so that anniversary T-shirt and snapback is awash in bound quantities.
The Tailor Bazaar As Art Space:Aksel Paris311 W. Broadway, nr. Grand St. 888-992-5735After ablution an online suit-and-shirt cast in his bedchamber four years ago, French-born Yazid Aksas opened his aboriginal abundance in January, allotment Soho so the amplitude could bifold as an art gallery. What you’ll acquisition are European-style dress shirts—high collars, audacious fabrics (mostly Italian and Turkish), a abutting fit—from his Aksel Paris characterization ($135). The Beau band offers custom-built suits, shirts, jackets, and shoes at prices that battling off-the-rack (suits are anchored at $590, with an arrangement of fabrics, buttons, and linings to accept from; shoes alpha at $250). Artists featured in the arcade are rotated anniversary month, with assignment by Eddy Bogaert, a archetypal angry painter, up now.
The Advancing Year in New Stores
Armoury, the Hong Kong–based menswear mecca that specializes in archetypal and custom dressmaking from Ascot Chang and Drake’s of London and alike has its own “eyewear specialist,” will be aperture its aboriginal New York area in Tribeca (address and date forthcoming). Alexander Wang’s brace of Soho food for Balenciaga are currently buried in abstruseness (and scaffolding) but will be apparent by Christmastime. And over in Brooklyn, the actual anew opened sporty-preppy streetwear bazaar Leisure Life—which sells its own line, additional best from Ralph Lauren, Champion, and Starter in baby quantities—will amp up its banal with shirting advised centralized and handmade boots alien from Namibia (559 Myrtle Ave., nr. Classon Ave., Clinton Hill; 347-725-3167).
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